Journey Without Goal: Trekking and pilgrimage from Kathmandu to Helambu (Yolmo)

Helambu is considered a 'beyul' or hidden valley, a pure place conducive for the practice of Dharma. In the past, the great yogi Milarepa has meditated there for many years, following the instructions of his teacher Marpa Lotsawa. In recent times, Chatral Rinpoche spend many years in retreat there and founded a couple of monasteries. Mingyur Rinpoche also visited and practised there during his wandering retreat.

In May 2017 we went for a small trek for about a week, starting in Kathmandu. I always wanted to write a small report / guide about it, so finally, here it is.

Note: Helambu has been hit very hard by the earthquake in 2015, and two years after the quake, rebuilding has only barely begun. But that poses no obstacle for going there, and my hope is that this blog post might inspire some people to visit; any money spend there as a tourist will naturally help the locals to rebuild their temples and towns.

View of Langtang range from Ama Yangri

Yolmo seems to be the Tibetan name and Helambu the Nepali equivalent. It is said that ‘he’ means potato and ‘la’ is short for labu, which means white radish (daikon radish) in Tibetan; these are the main produce of the valley. The people -Yolmos- have probably migrated from the Tibetan region of Gyirong about 200 or 300 years ago, and have mixed with the local Tamang population.

Helambu is the perfect place to go because it is not too far from Kathmandu, it is not so touristy, nature is beautiful and the people are very spiritual (but don’t be deluded: people are people!). It is perfect for beginner to medium level treks. The only downside is that you don’t get very high up in the mountains, but you can easily venture from Helambu to either the Gosaikund lakes or take the pass to Langtang. The pass to Langtang seems to be for more experienced trekkers though and should not be undertaken without a guide. There are enough tourists and hotels in Helambu, but it’s nothing compared to the Annapurna region, Gosaikund lakes and Langtang valley treks. Even though you are not in the middle of the highest mountains, still there are climbs going up 1 km straight, for example climbing up Ama Yangri peak, with breathtaking views of the Langtang range. The villagers of for example Tarkeghyang are devoted to Tibetan Buddhism, and there are many yogis around.

Kathmandu to Nagi Gompa and Chisapani

There are at least three options when starting from Kathmandu. Most treks start in Sundarijal, which would take about 4 hours in total. However it is also possible to start in Boudha, walk to Pulahari, and then follow the ridge to Nagi Gompa. This took us about 4 hours. If you know the way, you can probably do it quicker, but we lost track at some point and had to clamber up the hill through the jungle for a bit; not recommendable.

Starting in Boudha

An easier way is to start in Buddhanilkanta at the official entrance of the Park (the entrance fee is 500 rupees and you need to show your passport). Then it will only take about an hour to get to Nagi, after which you can continue straight away.

Behind Nagi gompa there is a path with concrete steps going up straight for a while. It’s very beautiful. After about two hours you’ll arrive at the beginning of the Bagmati river, and another few minutes up, there is a small temple. Occasionally you'll also meet a sadhu there, who is called 'tarkebaba', since he has meditated over there for five years with only a tree whole or 'tarke' as shelter.

'Tarkebaba' making chai

The Start of the Bagmati river

Small temple on the way

Then continue in the direction of Chisapani. After about an hour there is a crossroads: do not take the dirt road but continue straight. Then you’ll get to Chisapani.

Crossroads

Mountain view from Chisapani

Dangerously tilting hotel in Chisapani

Chisapani to Kutumsang

This part of the journey is perhaps least attractive. The main point is to keep your eyes open for shortcuts. If you follow the main road all along it will take about 10 hours. This is what we ended up doing and it’s not recommendable in the blazing sun. Especially before the village of Chipling there are many shortcuts.

Chipling

Small village, probably Banjang

At the end of the day's hike there is still a short climb to do to get to Kutumsang.

Alternatively, there are busses going from Kathmandu to Kutumsang and it is an option to start the journey here. It’s a nice town with quite some guesthouses; many popular trekking routes meet here.

Kutumsang to Mangengoth

Leaving Kutumsang, after about 15 minutes there is a field with a stupa on the left; after that you will meet the army post and entrance to the Langtang national park . You are not allowed to trek alone and the entrance fee is 3500 rupees if you pay at the gate. Yet if you get your permit before in Kathmandu at the Nepal Tourism Board (on Pradarshani Marg in the middle of Kathmandu) it would be around 1500, I have been told.

Stupa just before the entrance of the national park

Information on Langtang National Park

Climbing up to Mangengoth is a isn't easy, it's around 1 km, and it will take a few hours. When you get to Mangengoth there are two hotels, one as soon as you get up and one about 15 minutes further on.

Second guesthouse in the distance

Trees in the valley high up Mangengoth

Be mindful that in general in the mountains, the higher you go, the higher the price of food and bottled water becomes, since everything needs to be carried up by porters. Mangengoth is at 3400 meters and it will get pretty cold during the night, even on a warm summer day.

Nepali signs by the way, are hilarious: "remoteness.. etc could cause the trekker unhappy events" and also "it is unsafe to trekking single because undesirable incidents such as tourist lost has been reported".

Mangengoth to Melamchigaon

The last climb up to Thadepati will take two to three hours. Thadepati is the highest point in the trek to Helambu. Here there is a split, the road on the left side leading up to Gosaikund and the road leading down on the right descending into Helambu valley.

Thadepati

The descent to Helambu is steep, about 1km down, but not very difficult. You will arrive at Melamchigaon.

Melamchigaon

At Melamchigaon, make sure that you visit the Nyida Khajor cave (the cave of union of the sun and the moon), where guru Rinpoche is said to have meditated. It’s just above the village.

Entrance to the Nyida Khajor cave

The sun and the moon on the sealing of the cave

Melamchigaon to Tarkeghyang

This will take about one morning, around 3 to 4 hours. At times the road is not very clear though, especially in the beginning. Don't hesitate to ask the villagers frequently for directions.

Stupa on the way to Tarkeghyang

Tarkeghyang is completely destroyed by the eartquake, and even two years after the earthquake, the whole village still lives in makeshift houses.

Destruction in Tarkeghyang

We stayed at Yangri peak hotel, one of the only hotels still standing. It turned out we slept in the same room where Mingyur Rinpoche stayed during his wandering retreat.

Hotel Yangri Peak

Mingyur Rinpoche showed up as an ordinary monk, and the hotel owner had no idea who he was. He asked for a place to do retreat and the hotel owner decided to help him and bring him tsampa and other things every week. The place Mingyur Rinpoche did retreat is about 15 minutes up the hill from the hotel, and if you ask nicely, I'm sure the owner will guide you there. Unfortunately there is nothing left of the retreat house due to the earthquake; it's a pile of stones. It seems it could be rebuild for about 5000 dollar, so if any one is inspired and has some funds to spare...

The owner of Yangri Peak hotel showing the ruins of Mingyur Rinpoche's retreat hut

The people of Tarkeghyang are very spiritual. I spoke quite a bit to many of the lamas, and I was told the whole village decided that they would first rebuild their temple before rebuilding any of their own houses. They have been living in houses made of corrugated plates for more than two years now, and the winters are pretty cold there.

360 view of the ruins of Tarkeghyang

Practice with Chime Rinpoche for the deceased

At Tarkegyang, a nice thing to do is to walk up to the retreat centre of Chime Rinpoche. In 2018 they were just starting to rebuild the retreat house (drupkhang). There are many yogis there, but please don't disturb their retreat.

Chime Rinpoche

Rebuilding the retreat house or 'drupkhang'

Tarkeghyang - Climbing up to Ama Yangri

I recommend to stay for a day at least at Tarkeghyang and climb up to Ama Yangri. If you are lucky the weather is clear. But in any case, you should leave as early as possible, like 3 or 4 am. The climb is about 1 km up, pretty tough, and will take between 3 to 4 hours. You should arrive there around 7-8 am to get a clear sky. If the sky is clear you will have a magnificent view of the whole Langtang range.

Ama Yangri seen from Thadepati

Beginning in Tarkeghyang, after about one hour you’ll reach a small grass plain with some yaks grazing and a resting house. A good place to take a rest, since there is considerable climbing left.

Yaks on the way to Ama Yangri

View of Langtang range

Tarkeghyang to Timbu

It will take about two hours to get to the Milarepa cave, which is a must visit in Helambu. Just ask around and take the shortcuts. Unfortunately it has been severely damaged by the earthquake. Also a good place to make some donations!

You can't miss the sign

Shrine inside the cave

Fresco of Mila

From the cave it will take another two to three hours to get to Timbu, from which you can take the bus to Kathmandu. The last bus leaves around 2pm I think, so make sure you arrive before that time. The bus will take around 6 hours, so you’ll be back in Kathmandu around 7-8pm.