Journey Without Goal: Sri Lanka pilgrimage - practice at Sri Pada and climbing the peak

Sri Lanka's holiest mountain is called Adam's peak, since Christian's and Muslims believe it is the place where Adam first set foot on the earth. For Buddhists, it is called Sri Pada, meaning 'sacred or glorious foot', referring to the footprint the Buddha Shakyamuni left on the peak of the mountain. Buddhism is known for it's various teachings, differing according to beings perceptions. Not surprisingly, there are thus also different views regarding this place. The Theravadins assert that lord Buddha Shakyamuni came here and blessed the place with his footprint, in one of his three visits to Shri Lanka. Vajrayana Buddhism does not dispute this, but the place takes on an even greater significance, since this is the place where the tantras have been taught for the first time in the human realm. Here we also come across names like Mount Malaya, or Namchag Barwa, which means 'blazing meteorite iron mountain'. It is here where Vajrasattva appeared in actuality, and where the Five Excellent Ones of Sublime Nobility received the tantras of the mahayoga and anuyoga. Therefore we can say that for tantric Buddhist, this place is comparable to Deer Park, where the Buddha Shakyamuni gave his first sermon.

Magnificent views of Sri Pada on the way to Kandy

Headed by Neten Chokling Rinpoche and Orgyan Tobgyal Rinpoche, and Mindroling monastery's Gyalse Rinpoche, Dakpo Tulku and the Umdze, Tulku Jikdral, we performed an elaborate drupchen practice of Vajrasattva, the Minling Dorsem. The Minling Dorsem is renowned for being one of the most authentic practices, since it's revealer and composer, Minling Terchen Gyurme Dorje, followed the tantras to the letter. Therefore, it has been placed by Jamgon Kongtrul Rinpoche as the very first sadhana in the great collection of revealed treasures, the Rinchen Terdzo, which contains over a hundred volumes. Thus it was more then appropriate to perform this particular practice. And as the Theravadin monk Manjushri said in front of a large gathering of Bikshus and the abbot of Abhayagiri University, it is probably the firs time ever a Vajrasattva practice or drupchen has been done in Sri Lanka

As always, the great mastermind behind everything was Orgyan Tobgyal Rinpoche. The drupchen and pilgrimage had been in the planning for years. Since Sri Lanka is quite expensive as compared to other places in the Himalayan region, the logistics of performing a big practice and feeding over a hundred people in a this remote area, and other reasons, it took many years before it could finally happen.

Orgyan Tobgyal Rinpoche giving an introduction
to the place and the practice

Neten Chokling Rinpoche bestowing the Abhisheka

Placing the substances in the mandala house

Elaborate offerings were made

Light offerings

Orgyan Tobgyal Rinpoche answering questions about the practice

To enhance this sacred place even further, and to ensure that no breakages or faults would be able to obscure it, we did an elaborate 'descent of blessings' written by Dilgo Khyentse Rinpoche, which took around 20 minutes. An excerpt:

The glorious heruka delightfully liberated

All the classes of dualism's demons.

Then from their aggregates, the immeasurable palace arose.

All you, inhabiting the vajra city of the three seats;

Protectors of the realms, protectors of the directions, nagas,

And mamo's of the sacred places and lands,

Come here to this sacred vajra place!

Bless this place as indivisible

From the great blazing charnel ground,

And transform it into a grove for vidyadharas to gather!

Bringing down the blessings

Most of the time, Sri Pada was shrouded in clouds.

It was only possible to hold the drupchen off-season, and the monsoon was not completely over yet. We experienced nothing but clouds for two weeks. But at the day of receiving the siddhis, the clouds wondrously opened up and the sky was completely clear.

Finally, the clouds cleared a bit and Sri Pada could be seen fully

The receiving of the siddhis

OTR personally handed out the sacred pills
which were blessed during the drupchen

Climbing to the peak

Without break, after having concluded the ritual, we ascended Sri Pada. Most people started climbing at 12 o'clock at night, but some of us left at 3:30 and arrived before 6 am. Normally, that would be on time to see a grandiose sunrise, but the clouds would not let it.

No breathtaking sunrise, only clouds.

Prayer flags were hung and we performed a long smoke offering from the Chokling Tersar.

Hanging prayer flags on top of Sri Pada

Smoke offerings are made on top of Sri Pada

Chokling Rinpoche himself hoisting the offering tormas

We had been told the shrine holding the sacred footprint would be opened at 6 am for an hour or so, but unfortunately the shrine was not opened at all off-season.