How to get to Bir and Dharamsala, Himachal Pradesh, India

Bir is getting increasingly popular and thus it seemed time to write a few notes on how to easily get there. This is surely not the only way to get to Bir, but it will give you some hints for a pleasant journey. Information and  prices are from 2012.

First of all when you book your flight, make sure it lands in Delhi in the morning.  If you arrive in the evening you’d have to look for a hotel in the middle of the night in Delhi, and I can tell from experience that’s not the best idea. Another hint for booking flight’s is to book directly with the airline company. You can use search engines for a cheap flight, but then once you’ve found it just book directly with them instead of on these sites.

Once you get to Delhi airport, outside there will be loads of people offering you a taxi. Some look very official but don’t be deceived. Just continue walking to the official taxi stand building. There you can buy a ticket with a number for a taxi, If I remember correctly they’re yellow/green. Then you can go to any location you wish ofcourse, but I recommend to take a taxi to Majnu Katila , the Tibetan Settlement in Delhi. The Taxi should cost only about 400 rupees. This is like a little China-town but then with Tibetans. For me it’s like a safe haven in Delhi, much like Boudha is in Kathmandu.

If you get to Majnu Katila in the morning, first thing you can do is get a guesthouse, at least for the day to drop your bag and relax.  Normally there is no need to book a guesthouse in advance, there are plenty, and not very expensive either.

Half a day in Majnu Katila is usually enough for me, so after having had breakfast I get my bus Ticket to Himachal Pradesh. There are several options. One option is to book a bus to Dharamsala, these ones leave from Majnu Katila. If you want to go to Bir straight away, you have to go with a taxi to the Indian bus station (ISBT bus station), and buy a ticket to Baijnath. A taxi to the bus station should cost around 100 rupees, a motorized riksha around 70 rupees (both one way). The cheap bus is only 500 rupees, but I can highly recommend to get the AC bus for about 800 rupees. These are all night-buses, and thus you will arrive in Dharamsala or Baijnath in the morning. On the bus station, to buy the ticket for the AC bus you have to go inside the -unfinished- building, go up and look for counter 9. Currently the bus leaves at 19:45, but that might change of course. An advice is to leave on time from Majnu Katila, perhaps one hour in advance, because there might be some traffic jams around this time, and also it might take some time to find your bus in the chaos of the bus station. Currently the bus leaves somewhat at the back of the station, just around the corner. Just look for somewhat more fancy busses, and ask, ask, and ask again.

Edit: Last year there was a deluxe bus going straight to Bir from Majnu Katila. However, currently it seems to go only until Khangra.

On the one and only street in Majnu Katila, on the corner of the main exit is a good shop where you can exchange money and book buses trains, flights or whatever. Here you can buy a ticket for the bus to Dharamsala, but remember for the bus to Baijnath you have to go and buy the ticket in advance at the bus station.

Another option for the somewhat wealthier travellers would be to take the plane to Dharamsala. Once I know more about this option I will edit this post. A Taxi from Dharamsala to Bir should cost around 1500 rupees. 

One final option, is to take the train to Pathankot, and from there take a taxi to Dharamsala or Bir. For me it’s to much of a detour, but if you hate the night bus perhaps this is an option for you (but then it will be a night-train so not so much difference). 

In Majnu Katila, don’t forget to buy plenty of books from the Tibetan Books store. There are two shops , one big one and one smaller one. You cannot buy any books in Bir, only in Dharamsala you can buy books.

If you take the Bus to Baijnath, then from there you can take the taxi to Bir which should cost about 250-300 rupees. For the bus-diehards, there is also a bus going.

You can find a list with places to stay at the Deerpark website.

Also check out this new site The Bir Portal , which also has information about the new permit which you might need for Bir. Here you can find a map of Himachal Pradesh